POKHARA, Sept 22: Manaslu Base Camp is bustling with climbers this autumn, but worsening weather conditions have cast uncertainty over their summit plans, with some even considering abandoning their expeditions.
At 8,163 meters, Manaslu has attracted the highest number of climbers this season, according to the Department of Tourism (DoT). The influx of climbers, Sherpas, guides, support staff and porters has turned the base camp into a temporary settlement.
According to the DoT, 41 teams have obtained permits to climb Manaslu this season. The teams comprise 366 men and 127 women, bringing the total number of climbers holding permits to 493.
Manaslu has attracted the largest number of climbers among the 11 mountains for which foreign climbers have obtained permits this season. A total of 55 teams, comprising 579 climbers, have received permits to climb these mountains.
The Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) said the base camp, located at an altitude of 4,800 meters, is currently crowded with climbers and their support teams.
MCAP Chief Anil Prasai said the base camp has become busy with climbers, Sherpas, guides, support staff and porters involved in the expeditions.
“Manaslu Base Camp is currently crowded with climbers and their support teams,” he said.
Local business operators said climbers and their support staff are staying in colorful tents spread across the base camp. Manaslu sees more climbers during this season than at other times of the year, creating a busy atmosphere at the base camp.
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While support staff are busy managing logistics for climbers, the climbers themselves are engaged in preparations and acclimatization.
The base camp can be reached from Samagaun in upper Gorkha in a day's journey, while some climbers also travel there by helicopter.
Local tourism entrepreneur Dawa Nurbu Lama said the second, third and fourth camps on Manaslu are particularly crowded at present.
“This is the most suitable time for climbing Manaslu. Foreign climbers come here during this period,” he said. “There are many visitors, and the base camp area is crowded.”
According to Lama, the government's recent provision requiring climbers to first scale an 8,000-meter peak before attempting Mount Everest has also contributed to the rise in the number of climbers on Manaslu.
“Many climbers come to Manaslu to prepare for Everest, which is one reason the number is higher this year,” he said. “It is more crowded than in previous years.”
However, changing weather conditions have left climbers increasingly concerned as they enter the final phase of their preparations. Lama said climbers have become anxious following forecasts of deteriorating weather next week.
“Climbers are in a hurry because they fear the weather will deteriorate,” he said. “If the weather remains favorable, summit attempts can be completed. Some climbers are even considering abandoning their expeditions.”
Bodharaj Bhandari, chairman of Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition, said Manaslu is usually crowded at this time of year because it is considered the ideal climbing season.
According to Bhandari, this year's Manaslu climbing season had been particularly encouraging until the weather suddenly changed. He said 493 foreign climbers have obtained permits to climb Manaslu so far this season.
Although the number could increase later in the season, the current figures already indicate significant participation, he said.
“The sudden change in weather around the middle of the season has affected climbing activities,” Bhandari said. “Continuous snowfall from the night of September 18 through September 19 has made Manaslu unfavorable for climbing for the time being.”
He said heavy snowfall in the upper sections has increased risks along the climbing route and at the camps.
Bhandari, who has been sending climbers to Manaslu every year, said the rope-fixing team preparing the climbing route had completed fixing ropes until around 9:15 pm on September 17.
However, snowfall soon afterward covered both the upper and lower sections with fresh snow, making the route challenging once again, he said.
Bhandari said authorities have also been urging climbers and support teams to exercise extreme caution, as forecasts indicate the possibility of heavy rain and snowfall across Nepal from September 24-25 and for about a week thereafter.
Under such circumstances, climbers, Sherpas and support staff may have to be moved to safer locations, or climbing activities may have to be suspended temporarily, he said.
He added that actual climbing conditions would become clearer only after observing the weather over the next one or two days, particularly following the forecast adverse weather system.
Bhandari said the Manaslu climbing season, which had started on a highly promising note, has encountered a new challenge in its final stage. He said further climbing activities will depend on improvements in the weather, snowfall conditions and route safety.
According to DoT statistics, the highest number of climbers to obtain permits for Manaslu in a single year was 404 in 2079 BS. The number stood at 301 climbers from 26 teams in 2080 BS and increased to 308 last year.
Manaslu was first successfully climbed in 1956. Since then, around 3,000 climbers have reached the summit of the 8,163-meter mountain.
